Tuesday, 10 November 2015

The secret war in Laos

I personally did not know much about South East Asia history before I travelled here but today I have learned something new.

I had vaguely read in the guidebook a note that advised not to go off the beaten track too much in Laos as there are many UXO (unexploded ordnances) left behind during the war.

What war? A secret one.

Laos declared its neutrality during the Vietnam war, signing the Geneva convention but the US want to get rid of all the "commies".

For nine years, from 1964 to 1973, the US was responsible for more than 2 million tons of cluster bombs droppings, making Laos the most bombed country in the world pro capita. These bombs killed civilians in 98% of the cases and are still killing people today.

A cluster bomb is a bigger missile that contains more than 700 smaller bombs, called bombies. When being dropped from the plane, the missile opens, the bombies catch speed and blow up when hitting the ground. Except in Laos many of them did not blow up.

Forty years later, in a country that heavily relies on farming, these bombies can be found in all the provinces. Killing children playing in the fields, farmers out working, mothers cooking (the heat " wakes up" the bombies) and generally damaging the Lao communities.

The red dots are the bombed areas


 As sad as this situation is, there is a beacon of hope. Today we visited the COPE centre (Cooperative Orthotic Prosthetic Enterprise) Where people are made aware of this situation, money is raised, amputees who are UXO survivors can receive assistance, physiotherapy and artificial limbs. 



                     

The locals have sadly learned to live with UXO's: they were being used around the house, turned into tools and knives. Once the tourists started to arrived, the local communities have started making spoons and bracelets out of bomb materials and the money goes back to the people to lift them out of poverty.



When it comes to the UXO's, the UN and some Western charities have trained local groups so they can keep on detonating these bombs making Laos a safer country where the parents won't be scared to let their children play out in its beautiful countryside anymore. 

Sunday, 8 November 2015

The Lao countryside

After taking a VIP bus from Luang Prabang (see picture below) we have arrived in Vang Vieng.

On the bank of the river Nam Song, Vang Vieng used to be a party town that has now changed to a tourist destination for outdoors activities.

We rented some bikes and took off on a dirty track to the see the local cave and the lagoon. The lagoon was not much compared to the one in LP but the 15km round trip in the Lao countryside was worth the sore bum today.








Wednesday, 4 November 2015

Tad Sae Waterfall

About 30km away from Luang Prabang, you can find the Tad Sae Waterfalls.

Take a short boat ride for less than £1 and you are somewhere absolutely terrific.

Water is a bit chilled but perfectly refreshing and the surroundings are so beautiful.

Here's a few snaps!







Tuesday, 3 November 2015

Sabaidee from Luang Prabang

We are currently in Luang Prabang. A Unesco heritage site with 33 Buddhist temples, French bakeries, waterfalls, a cracking night market and 2 river sides.

The main temple is the Phu Si: standing on a hill 100mt-tall, with its many Buddhas is a good spot for a view over the rivers.

The other temples are a golden gems, with colourful murals and stunning statues. Here's a few selection:








 Lao cuisine is not the most famous of South East Asia but, with Luang Prabang being high on the tourist hit list, some riverside restaurant have really stepped up their game and this is what I got for lunch today. Don't ask what it was ... But it was delicious!

Slow boating in Laos

Crossing the land border from Thailand to the north of Laos is fairly easy: a bridge over the river has been built with immigration on either sides. But, once you are in Laos, you are still a couple of days away from Luang Prabang - one of the best tourist spots in South East Asia.

The best way to get there is by slow boat on the Mekong river. Grab a seat (if you are lucky), make sure you have cards and make new friends. You will spend a couple of days on this boat - slowly making your way down stream. Your back is going to be sore but it is a nice feeling to be floating down one of the most life-giving rivers in Asia.
The slow boat
 The Mekong is going to be around us over the next couple of months, while we make our way up to Vietnam via Laos and Cambodia.
Our plan for the next couple of months
 Very happy to be in Laos, also I loved it the first time round - as it is also the home to one of the best beers I have tried in the whole of south east Asia!
Happy to be reunited with Beer Lao

The Mekong river view from the boat
Now off to do some exploring around the 33 temples in the city, not to mention the night market and the waterfalls.

Wat Pro: Buddha in Bangkok

 One of the biggest temples in Bangkok is Wat Pho.

Its most famous feature is the Reclining Buddha: 46mts long and 15mts high, this pose signifies the Buddha's passing into nirvana and it is a very impressing (and shining) statue.


Inside the structure there are 108 monk bowls. For less than 50p you can buy some very small coins to be dropped in the bowl for good luck. All you hear in that side of the room is the 'ching ching ching' of the monies being dropped... So I had to do it too :-)


Me and the husband in the temple
Aside from the reclining Buddha, there are many more rooms and small the temples. The one that impressed me the most is the one with rows of Buddhas in their meditation pose, all in shiny gold colour.


Outside the Way, there are the ever-present street food vendors. I love being in Asia for the fact you can get really cheap and nice fruit you would not be able to afford in Europe. The lady here is selling sliced mango, watermelon, pineapple, papaya and a local apple. Mango definitely gets my vote!


We briefly stopped also at the Royal Palace but the queue was long and the ticket pricey so we just walked around the gardens. The Thai King has his own ATM and noney changer in that area :-)

Tired and hungry, we made our way back to Khao Sarn Road (the backpacker area of Bangkok). We stopped at a local side street café to get some food. Pork noodle soup and duck with rice went down a treat - though I think we were being served Chinese food, not Thai :-)

Saturday, 31 October 2015

The joys of the night buses

The thing about travelling is that you have more time than money so, if at home I would not consider taking a long distance bus when I can fly/get a reasonably priced train - on the road you do exactly the opposite, embarking on 12/16hrs bus rides every week or so.

That is why we found ourselves again on an over night bus from Bangkok to the northern city of Chiang Rai. We were offered a VIP bus for little more money than the standard one. We decided it was worth the extra expense Asia being Asia, where I have seen "luxury" written on Indian 1970s buses that are still running...

I have to admit we were pleasently surprised... This has probably been the best night bus so far: with our blankets and pillow, a TV (with 2 movies in English!), free water and sweets, one carton of maize-flavoured green tea (don't ask) and a chair that has got a massage function!